(1)
In the Spring Festival, I came to Linghou with two friends.
The village looked same as usual, but we found that in front of the villagers’ door, there hung some cooked pork and chicken, and there were bags of rice and some bottles of oil in every villager’s house.
We went to the leader of the village, Mr. SU. He was in his sitting room, talking with another Villager, Mr. XU. They told us that they had a busy New Years Eve this year. Before work camp came to Linghou, the journalist, Ms. LU, was the only person who visited them in the Spring Festival every year. This year, to their surprise, not only Ms. LU, but people from two Charity organizations, the City TV station, and some businessmen in Chaozhou city came here. They gave them rice, oil, chicken, pork, snack, cotton quilts, and money.
That night, Mr. XU invited us to have supper with him.
He began to prepare dinner very early. It was the traditional Chinese hot pot. I use to have this kind of hot pot with my family when I was a little girl. Now people use electric one instead of it. I was so excited to see the old style hot pot with fragrance of charcoal. And I like Mr. SU’s way of cooking very much as well. He always cooked deliciously with something very simple, like cucumber, parsley, dried bean curd stick and so on.
As the food in the hot pot began to boil and drift it fragrance, Mr. SU poured some alcohol in our cups. We raised our cups and toasted with him for the New Year. He took a sip of the alcohol, stopped and looked at somewhere far, then he smiled and said, “I read the book <No More Suffering> written by Mr. LIN Zhiming (a Hansen Disease affected person in the other village in South China), now, I really feel ‘no more suffering……’” he then raised his cup again and said “Kiac (in Chaozhou Language as cheers)”.
It was very cold out side, but I felt really warm in his room, maybe because of the hot pot, maybe because of the alcohol……One of my friend stood up and got out of Mr. XU’s room. “Bang, bang, bang……!!!” soon we heard the firecrackers blew up at this silent night in Linghou.
(2)
I clearly remember September 13, 2002. it was the first time in my life to know about work camp, to begin to have relationship with volunteer activity.
After the presentation by FIWC KANTO, some of my classmates were curious about the activity but at the same time, a bit worried about the disease. We looked up in the dictionary and realized it’s named leprosy in English. Finally I and my friend decided to go and have a look at the village called Linghou.
We were told to take the bus and got off at the crossroad in Guxiang Town, where there were a lot of tricycles which was the only tool to get into Linghou village.
To our surprise, when the tricycle drivers heard that we wanted to go to Linghou, they confirmed with us “Are you going to that leprosy hut?!” “I don't go to that place!” I asked them why, then they laughed and said, “why you want to go there? How can people go to that place?”
Finally one of the drivers agreed to take us to Linghou hospital, which was about 300 meters away from where the villagers lived, with high price.
When we arrived at Linghou hospital, the driver put us off and drove away.
The next weekend, we went to Linghou again. When we arrived at the cross road of Guxiang Town, the driver saw us and asked, “Are you going to Linghou again?”
We nodded. Then he said, “Take my motorcycle.”
“Can you take us to the village directly?”
The driver stopped for a moment and said, “The mountain is very hard to drive on……”
“It’s just very short road!”
“……Ok. Come, come.” He waved to let us get on his motorcycle.
When we arrived at Linghou, we went to the villagers’ house as usual. The driver stood here and there, and watched us.
Later I knew that some campers asked for the drivers’ telephone number and asked them to take us to the market in Guxiang every morning.
Finally most of the drivers at the crossroad of Guxiang knew us and knew about Linghou.
Last month I visited Linghou again. Before I got out of the village, I called the tricycle driver and asked him to take me out. He came soon. I was still preparing luggage. While waiting for me, the driver went to one of the villager’s house and took Gongfu-Tea (Chaozhou style of tea) with the villager.
(3)
After six hours bus, I arrived in Chaozhou.
The motorcycle took me on the mountain road to Linghou. “Here I am again, Linghou!”
Villagers were all fine. I went to the villagers’ house one by one, talked with them and had tea. Soon Uncle ZENG came, with a towel on his shoulder, he smiled and point to me, as greeting. “Come, come.” He said.
I then followed him to his house. From inside of his house, he took out a plastic bag and opened it. As I could see, it was some green olives in the bag. He put all the olives in my hand and said “I keep this for you. Try, it’s very delicious.”
We sat down in front of his house. He began to drink the strong but very cheap alcohol as he always, and I enjoyed the olives he gave me.
“Did you go back home before you come here?” he asked.
“Not yet.” I said.
He shook his head. “You should go home!”
He took a sip of alcohol and continued “… my mother died… and I can’t see her any more…”
He took another sip of the alcohol and swallowed it very slowly, “I went back home once a year to visit her. Every time I brought her something delicious. Now even if I want to buy something for her, she couldn't eat it…”
“Ah…” he shook his head, “my brother’s wife treated her very badly. She even beat my mother…Now I don't need to go back home.” As he said, tears came down on his cheek.
He wiped it with the towel on his shoulder and drank off his cup.. “I heard that your parents like olive. Take it to them.”
I nodded my head and took another olive. It’s bitter but sweet.
(4)
The first time when I walk on the mountain road of Linghou, I thought Linghou was a utopia; the first time when I see the people in Linghou, I thought Linghou was a hell on earth; the first time when I meet CAI Wanqing, an aunt in Linghou, I can’t stop my footsteps to go to Linghou.
It was dark in her room. The only light I could see was the light from the window on the opposite side from the door. Just the window was bright and other things were all dark. It’s hard to see other things in the room. But she was there, sitting on her bed in the corner. I got in, said “hello” to her, and found she was blind. Dust, mold, and smell of pus were all that I could find in her room.
There was a chair made of bamboo beside her bed. She didn't ask me to sit down as Chinese people usually do. I sat down there. She reached out her hand to search for something. It was cigarette. She didn't light it on, but keep it in her hand, which had only two fingers. “Where are you from?” she asked me. “I am a student from Hanshan Teacher’s College.” I said. She nodded.
That was our first conversation.
After that, I often come to Linghou. And somehow, I always went to CAI Wanqing’s room at first. Gradually, we became kind of friends. I would always sit on her bed. Sometimes she asked me to light on a cigarette; sometimes I kneaded her shoulders and arms. For most of the time, we were talking.
Once on a hot summer day, while talking with her as usual, I suddenly asked her, “shall I take bath for you?” I was a bit surprised that she agreed at once. I then prepared for water and bucket. When she took off her clothes, I found she was really so thin. She seemed a bit shy. I tried my best to let her relax. But when I saw her foot, I was shocked. I couldn't say that was a foot. It had no fingers at all and it lost its shape as a foot completely. Tears came to my eyes at once……
Though she couldn't see anything, she seemed to feel something and said, “Yesterday tynoon (in Chaozhou Language, a Japanese camper who lived in Linghou 2003-2004) nursed my foot…… I always tell him not to do it. The feet are too smelly. But he wouldn't listen to me. So kind the guy is…”
In this way, I made acquaintance with Ms. CAI. And I found she was such an elegant and pure lady. She asked me to call her “sister”, as she’s not married for all her life and in her heart she was still a girl.